Painting & Modelling
Substitute Soldiers….
Jan 11th
Using alternative miniatures in your games!
- by James Carey
Time has passed since the early days of miniature gaming, when Games Workshop effectively stood alone in miniature gaming. Since the early days of Warhammer 40,000 Rogue Trader and the Warhammer Fantasy Role Play Mass Combat game, many things have changed. For one, Games Workshop are now a commercial juggernaught. Still a leader in their field and turning profits in a recession, there are so many mainstream commercial enterprises which are falling on hard times (HMV) or as we all know too well are gone altogether.
While GW has undoubtedly changed in the last fifteen or so years, so have many other things in gaming. Other companies have surfaced some have come and gone while others, like Privateer Press, Corvus Belli, Mantic games, Rackham, Warlord Games, and Mongoose Publishing to name a few have surfaced. Some have had a massive impact on the hobby on a world-wide scale, bringing something new and special to the hobby, for the benefit of all! Maybe doing GW the favour of providing some healthy competition. Unfortunately, some have faded into the mists of obscurity for all time*.
So with many other companies, new and old, producing models in a varied range including historical, fantasy, science fiction, and alternative history, the modern gamer has a wide amount of choice for alternative toy soldiers to really personalise their own armies.
Personally, I have always liked to use models from the same company, regardless of game, in my armies for conversions or even simply alternative models. Over time though, this has changed slightly, but my own reason for doing so was because I felt the consistent look with the same scale and sculptors across the ranges, primarily with my GW armies seemed somehow more fitting. While I have become more lax with this on account of more products being available to me I still retain this mentality with Privateer Press games, mainly because that particular line and gaming world is so unique. In contrast, you could easily use some generic sci-fi soldiers or even WW2 models as Imperial Guard regiments for Warhammer (if the scale is right, in my humble opinion…), it is very hard to find an alternative for Cryx Bonejacks or Cyngar Stormblades.
Now, we come full circle. The tournament scene in Ireland has exploded in the last few years. People are travelling to more events, the internet has become a very useful communications tool for advertising tournaments and interaction between gamers who normally would not get the chance to talk all that much. While I miss Games Workshop running tournaments in Ireland, I think it is a very good thing that there are independently run tournaments by gamers, for gamers. A major problem I always had with the Games Workshop tournament pack was models had to be GW. This used to be the model having to be at least 50% GW. I heard recently that this percentage has increased. ‘Terrible’ is the word I would use to describe this rule.
I remember a few years back a GW tournament in Limerick where a local (at the time) from the Gathering used a Feral Ork army, using large dinosaur models as his Squiggoths and converting them. He had two in the army if I recall correctly. Long story short, he was told he couldn’t use them as they were not 50% GW, and part of them were scratch built. So, this cool, unique army was not allowed to play! I don’t know if this guy stopped playing because of this, but within a few months he had stopped visiting into the shop, and I don’t think I’ve ever seen him at a con or a tournament since. I’d imagine that these two things are related. I could be wrong, in fact I hope I’m wrong but due to this silly rule, a unique army has been lost to the gaming scene, and now Ireland is down one gamer.
Anyway, let’s try and keep it positive, and less about anger at big businesses and their brain-dead policies. Mantic games have released their Space Dwarves**, and they are very, very nice. What the hell, they are awesome. Buy them, use them as Forge Fathers in Warpath, and get friends in your gaming group interested by getting the local Space Ork player to bring along his models to use as Warpath Orx***, so nobody else has to spend money if they don’t want to. Then, use your Space Dwarves as Space Marines, in independently run tournaments, where it will be allowed. So now, you have saved money with less expensive models, have an army for two games, and in one game, a very unique looking Space Marine army.
I hope you enjoyed reading this article, and hope it didn’t come across as a jumbled mess with no direction in its writing, or a shameless plug of my own political opinion/agenda. Vote Republican! Gingrich 2012
Remember: Violence is never the answer, unless the question is ‘What is not the answer?’
*Rest in peace, Starship Troopers. Your time with us, though short, is fondly remembered.
**Pronounced ‘Forge Fathers’
***Pronounced ‘Orcs’
New brushes on the market
Dec 20th
OK the press release from Back 2 Basics was all about new brushes. Not anythgin for most gamers to get excited about but these are a little interesting.
From the press release -
- Pure Kolinsky Sable Hair bristles.
- Chrome plated Brass ferrule.
- High Grade Aluminium Handle (no swelling as per wooden handles).
- Excellent snap & ample volume hold.
- Extremely light and well balanced for those long painting sessions.
And the really interesting bit -
- The handle itself can be unscrewed from the tip, becoming a cap for the brush. Due to it being threaded, your brush will not come apart when done up. No moisture trapped due to small ventilation hole in the end of the cap/handle.
Storage and transport of brushes is usually a bit of a pain. These brushes sound like they could be a good option and the prices look pretty decent as well
Blending Tutorial
Sep 19th
Hi Folks, after I got a few requests to prepare tutorials on the techniques I use for my models I now present a first tutorial on blending. I will try to get a few more tutorials up, e.g. NMM, Faces, Weathering, Reflections, use of colours etc. but since real life keeps me fairly busy in the moment, I don’t know when. I do blending first because it’s a basic requirement for many techniques. But instead of repeating the typical blending tutorial what you can already find on the internet, I try to show you how I paint blendings on an army scale, because when I started blendings I quickly realized it takes up a horrendous amount of time to do it properly. Time I don’t want to spend on a whole army. Thus I developed my own shortcut.
Wet pallet
The first thing you need to prepare before you start a blending, actually in my opinion before you start any painting at all, is a wet pallet. This is basically wet tissue paper with baking paper on top. What does a wet pallet add to your painting? While water evaporates from the colour and dries
down your colour quickly the baking paper acts as a membrane and delivers water to the colour at the same. Thus it keeps your colour in ideal consistency for much longer. This is, in my opinion, absolutely necessary for blendings where you paint over a long period of time with thinned and self-mixed colours. If you can close your wet pallet, e.g if you prepare it in a box of tubba-ware, you can even keep it over night.

An example of wet pallet, mainly shades of grey for silver NMM
Classic blending
The blending what you normally see is based on the following principle. You start by mixing up different shades of colours, e.g. black to white in 8-10 shades using chaos black, codex grey, fortress grey and skull white for Silver NMM. You need to thin them by 1:4-1:10 with water or colour thinner and you should use a wet pallet (baking paper on wet tissue on a plate does the job). Then you apply layers starting with the darkest colour going up to the brightest. The important thing with blending is, that you keep the brush parallel to the gradient and move it away from the dark colour. Also you do not use the tip but the flat side of the brush. Normally you would apply a couple of layers on top of each other but leaving out a little bit more of the painted area with each step. I think the picture explains it. There is three different blendings just to show you the effect of adjusting the number of layers and the transparency (i.e. the dilution of the colours). Top is a poor blending with few layers and comparibly thick colours. Middle: Colour thinned out. Bottom: Colour thinned out and more layers applied. I think you can see the improvement of the blending with each step.

In order to obtain an even better result you can use very thin colour to smooth out the gradient by applying wave like brush strokes along the intersections of two shades.
There is a bit more behind blending, but because I do not use the “ideal” blending I wouldn’t go into more detail.
Fast Blending
My approach to blending is much faster and explained in the following. But I have to point out that it’s rather fake blending than real blending what I’m doing.
The basic principle behind the blending is fairly simple. Instead of applying many different layers with straight edges I apply less thinned layers (typically 1:1 or 1:2 colour:water) and with the tip of the brush I prepare uneven intersections between the different layers. Something like this:

It’s up to you to find the right settings (thickness of the brush strokes, dilution of the colours, amount of layers etc.) to obtain the correct effect. Normally I need only one layer of each colour to get a more or less smooth blending. Too sharp contrasts can be smoothed out by using thinner colours and paint in a wave like manner along the intersections of two colours (just like smoothing out with normal blending).

The more often you do the smoothing, the better the blending will be. But obviously it also takes more time and since I want to get a decent blending in as short a time as possible I try to minimize the extra effort.
Well, that’s it for Blending. I think it’s mainly a matter of training to get this technique straight. Good shapes to train blendings on are coats, cylindrical shapes such as armour plates on legs and arms and straight areas such as armour plates on vehicles. Generally it is good if the area is of medium size
rather than too large (e.g. on LARGE vehicles) or small (e.g. frames of gems). And the micro-shape shouldn’t be too confusing in the beginning.
