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 [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels 
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
Thanks for all your comments, lads. It´s good to read stuff like that after hours and hours of painting.

emrys wrote:
I hope you will be going to warpcon as I would like to see them in the flesh and pick your brains on some of the techniques you use.


I might be there, but not sure yet (will I get off the leash from my family?). Anyway, if you want to know anything I´m happy to answer your questions.

So, after I finished the Sanguard (only the bases need to be done), I started a new project, my Terminators. That´s the first model:

Image

And a few of his comrades on my painting table:

Image

Hope you like them.

Cheers
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Mon Sep 13, 2010 4:10 pm
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
These look nice! I haven't seen many people use the same undercoat technique as you. I haven't tried it either (and have forgotten the name!). How have you found it works?

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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
I'm quite interested to know more about this technique as well.

Tony


Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:08 am
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
Looking amazing as ever.
Only thing I'd say is the crux termanatus looks odd all in grey on the model. I guess I'm used to seeing them with bone skulls or painted like the image on this page

http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Crux_Terminatus

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Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:44 am
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
Redmanphill wrote:
These look nice! I haven't seen many people use the same undercoat technique as you. I haven't tried it either (and have forgotten the name!). How have you found it works?


I think your speaking of Zenital highlighting. It's a pretty cool technique, but I prefer the old fashioned way myself. It looks like you maybe 1 zenital layer? then picked out a lot manually, which I really like. I think the terminators look better for it. Awesome work, I really like the current terminators.

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Tue Sep 14, 2010 10:21 am
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
@Jimmy: I saw this colour on the Space Hulk Termis, and i liked it. But maybe I will paint the skull in gold. I will give it a try on the next one.

@Undercoat: It's just Chaos Black spray with a little bit of dust from Skull White spray. I really like this technique and I can only recommend it. There is a couple of advantages:

1. The white "dust" gives the model a rough surface and colour sticks much better to it. I had quite a few problems with pure black undercoat because watered-down colour tends to behave like on an oily surface.
2. If you do it right (only "dust" from above) you automatically have some kind of zenithal lighting on the model.
3. It supports blending. If you have only dust on the surface and not in the recesses you already have something like a blending on your model. Plus, you have a dark colour in the recesses which is something you normally want anyway.
4. It highlights details. Maybe it's just my eyes, but I often have problems distinguishing small details if I basecoat black or white only.
5. Bright colours will be bright! This is one of the main advantages. Ever painted yellow on black? I HATE this dirty look.
6. You need less layers for a better result.

Generally, with this basecoat you combine the advantages of black-and-white-only basecoats and you get even more. So if the model shouldn't be mainly black, I always use this technique.

@zenithal highlighting: Do you mean, that you imagine a lightsource directly above the model? What I generally do for gaming models is to imagine at least two light sources on a model. One at a ~60 degree angle coming from the front, slightly to the right, and one coming from the left back at the same angle. But I don't care too much about it. I would have to paint the lower parts of the model in a much darker colour than, the upper parts. I don't really want to do this. The only thing I normally do is to paint the recesses in a darker colour and parts which are directed to the ground. And I highlight some edges. Doing more would be too much for the table (in my opinion). The main reason for me to even think about the lightsource is NMM, because it dictates the directions of the reflexes.

Cheers
General


Tue Sep 14, 2010 11:54 am
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
I used that undercoat method on my Malifaux crew after talking to Berkheart a while back.

Not sure how much benefit I got out of the undercoat colour. One of my limitations as a painter is light coats of watered down colour just don't come naturally to me as a painting approach.

Other than it was a hell of a lot easier to actually see the small detail on the model for that alone though I'll be using it as a standard approach

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Tue Sep 14, 2010 2:21 pm
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
I have also used this technique to good effect(for me). I like the basic coat it gives the toys and the texture is uch easier to paint.

Have seen it used to mimic stone work on terrain pieces too using a Grey dust on a Black base. Just some sprigs of green and brown and you have yourself some old battered buildings.

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Tue Sep 14, 2010 2:31 pm
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
Gojira wrote:
I think your speaking of Zenital highlighting.


Thats the one! A tutorial can be found here. It is a .pdf file and explains it quite well. It would seem like a rather fast way to paint marines at least! I can't see it being as useful for fantasy models.

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Wed Sep 15, 2010 6:48 am
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
Hi,

I haven't done any painting for quite a while and I can't just blame it on life. It's more like I wasn't in the mood to throw any paint at my models. That's why i try to put some pressure on myself with a "painting plan".

I want to paint a 1750p Blood Angels army during the next 6 months. So I split the models into groups of approx. equal painting effort and set myself some deadlines, starting now.

Group A: 10 Terminators (2 are already fully painted, 3 more than 50%)
Group B: 2x 5 Ass marines + Razorback
Group C: 10 Ass Marines with Jumppacks
Group D: Honourguard with Jumppacks, Librarian
Group E: Sangpriest, Predator
Group F: Basing

The plan is to paint one group per month starting with the Terminators til 15th of March folllowed by group B thil 15th of April and so on (even though I might change the order if it suits me...). The last group will be "basing" (finished by 15th of August) because I want to have a fitting look of all bases.

So, latest by 15th of March we will see if I can stick to my plan.

Cheers
Burkhardt


Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:32 pm
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
That's the current painting progress on my Terminators (which I will paint this month):

5 Terminators assemled and primed
3 Terminators painted red
2 Terminators done

I haven't shown those pics yet:

Image

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Tue Feb 15, 2011 1:11 pm
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
Lovely models as usual. Best of luck with your challenge!

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Tue Feb 15, 2011 4:06 pm
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
very impressive as usual!


Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:45 am
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
A little update on the Termies:

Image

Image

Image

Not done yet, but I might actually be able to stick to my plan at least for one month!


Tue Feb 22, 2011 6:37 pm
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
Fine, I've got a model finished. This is my librarian.

Image

Cheers
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Wed Mar 09, 2011 1:52 pm
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
Hey Burkhardt,

Screw you and your awesome painting. You're making everyone feel like they're crap.

Sincerely,

Everyone else.

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Wed Mar 09, 2011 7:21 pm
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
Oh, Owen, I missed your lovely reply to my last update. I take it as a compliment and as long as you keep crushing my armies on the battlefield I don't feel too bad about it.

Anyway, real life made room for some painting in the last days, so I can introduce you to my new addition, a Furioso dread:

Image

Hope you like it

Cheers
Burkhardt


Sat Jul 02, 2011 3:11 pm
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
I love em Burhardt, but you really enjoy showing us up. :-/
I do have a request, after your challenge is done.
Any chance you could put together a step by step on your non mettallic metals, flesh faces and blending?
Cos frankly yours are awesome.

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Mon Jul 04, 2011 2:19 am
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
No problem with the step by steps (even though I can't remember exactly how I've done the faces). I'll get them online during the next couple of days.

Glad you like the model :D


Mon Jul 04, 2011 1:42 pm
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
LeGeneral wrote:
No problem with the step by steps (even though I can't remember exactly how I've done the faces).


What happens is he drinks loads, blacks out and awakes to beautifully painted models. True story.

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Mon Jul 04, 2011 2:11 pm
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
If it was that simple, I'd be constantly drunk.


Mon Jul 04, 2011 4:08 pm
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
Hellfire wrote:
LeGeneral wrote:
No problem with the step by steps (even though I can't remember exactly how I've done the faces).


What happens is he drinks loads, blacks out and awakes to beautiful models. True story.


Slight amendment to make it even more awesome.

:lol:

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Mon Jul 04, 2011 4:18 pm
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
Brooklyn wrote:
Hellfire wrote:
LeGeneral wrote:
No problem with the step by steps (even though I can't remember exactly how I've done the faces).


What happens is he drinks loads, blacks out and awakes to beautiful models who've painted his army for him in such a wonderful style. Like Show Elves.. True story.


Slight amendment to make it even more awesome.

:lol:


Better still...

:P

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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
True Story.

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Tue Jul 05, 2011 1:18 am
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Post Re: [40k] LeGenerals Eldar and Blood Angels
Well, apart from the drugs involved mentioned by Eoin to keep my hand steady I do the following for NMM, Blending and faces.

First Blending because it's a basic requirement for the rest of the techniques. The blending what you normally see is based on the following principle. You start by mixing up different shades of colours, e.g. black to white in 8-10 shades using chaos black, codex grey, fortress grey and skull white for Silver NMM. You need to thin them by 1:4-1:10 with water or colour thinner and you should use a wet pallett (baking paper on wet tissue on a plate does the job). Then you apply layers starting with the darkest colour going up to the brightest. The important thing with blending is, that you keep the brush parallel to the gradient and move it away from the dark colour. Also you do not use the tip but the flat side of the brush. Normally you would apply a couple of layers on top of each other but leaving out a little bit more of the painted area with each step. I think the picture explains it. There is three different blendings just to show you the effect of adjusting the number of layers and the transparency (i.e. the dilution of the colours). Top is a poor blending with few layers and comparibly thick colours. Middle: Colour thinned out. bottom: Colour thinned out and more layers applied. I think you can see the improvement of the blending with each step.

Image

In order to obtain the best result you normally use very thin colour to smooth out the gradient by applying wave like brush strokes along the intersections of two shades.

There is a bit more behind blending, but because I do not use the "ideal" blending I wouldn't go into more detail.

My approach to blending is much faster and explained in the following. But I have to point out that it's rather fake blending than real blending what I'm doing.

The basic principle behind the blending is fairly simple. Instead of applying many different layers with straight edges I apply less thinned layers and with the tip of the brush I prepare uneven intersections between the different layers. Something like this:

Image

It's up to you to find the right settings (thickness of the brush strokes, dilution of the colours, amount of layers etc.) to obtain the correct effect. Normally I need only one layer of each colour to get a more or less smooth blending. Too sharp contrasts can be smoothed out by using thinner colours and paint in a wave like manner along the intersections of two colours (just like smoothing out with normal blending).

Image

The more often you do the smoothing, the smoother the blending will be.

NMM

Things you need to bear in mind for NMM:

1. You need sharp contrasts. This is probably the most important thing with NMM. There need to be areas where the darkest colour is adjacent to the brightest colour
2. You need smooth blendings. For the most part you need a smooth blending from dark to bright. For the brightest parts one can paint on star like structures as reflections. And as described in Point 1 there need to be a sharp contrast between each of the areas.
3. Sword blades: the two sections of the blade need to be painted the other way round. E.g. dark from top to bottom on left hand side, dark from bottom to top right hand side. Additionally you need a thin line in between the two areas. See e.g. sword of Farseer in one of the first posts.
4. Generally: The brightest colour in the blending will be furthest away from the light source for any given object. You need to analyze each substructure of each object in that way.
5. On edges of an object you need a thin bright line.

For all the basic rules of NMM you can have a look at my models (and don't worry if you find any breaches with the rules, it just shows you, that I am at the beginning with this technique myself) or check the internet. In general it helps a lot to walk around with open eyes and have a look at different kinds of metal. The old masters of Art are also ideal sources for inspiration. It's also useful to have a look at different shapes and get used to the different ways light is reflected.

Anyway, moving on to the specifics of Silver and Gold NMM

Silver NMM

As explained in the Blending section, I mix up Black to White with Chaos Black, Codex Grey, Fortress Grey and Skull White (e.g. Chaos Black, 2:1 Chaos Black:Codex Grey, 1:2 Chaos Black:Codex Grey, Codex Grey and so on). There is no reason why you couldn't use different shades of grey such as Space Wolves Grey or that you could add some blue to the mixture to make your NMM more steel like. I just don't do it right now. The only thing I do sometimes is to add a little bit of red to my NMM (both silver and gold) when I paint my BA to show reflections of the red armour.

I should also mention that the silver NMM on my models (e.g. the Termis) is more a black NMM. For the real silver feeling you will need to add more grey to the blending. I just found it much more easy to paint it that way and I like the looks of it.

Gold NMM

The gold NMM is a little more complicated colour wise. Generally you can use different shades of brown and yellow for the blending. In order to get the right contrast and reflections you use chaos black and skull white to brighten up the colours for final highlights/ darkest areas.

I used three different colour combinations for my gold NMMs, examples of which are shown on the Avatar (NMM without yellows), Farseer (very regal and clean, but most complex) and the Blood Angels (that's the easiest one which is also a little dirty and it symbolizes a not totally smooth texture which I think makes sense for the primitive armour of humans).

So these are the details of this NMM (if you want mix a drop of red into each of the colours). It's fairly similar to the one in the White Dwarf with the Sanguinor, mainly because Snakbite Leather-Bleached Bone blending is kind of Standard for NMM. So I can only recommend the White Dwarf Tutorial.

1. Prime Black
2. 1:1 mix of Calthan Brown and Snakebite Leather on all parts
3. Snakebite Leather with a drop of Bleached Bone as a first blending
4-6. Mix in more bleached bone into Snake Bite Leather and blend
7. Pure Bleached Bone as a comparably thick accent on the most exposed regions
8. Get some more contrast by adding a mix of 2. with Chaos Black into the recesses/ you can as well use shades of Purple, Green or Blue
9. Use a very thin line of pure black for the regions of maximal contrast
10. Apply a thin line of white on to the Bleached Bone Accents
11. mix up a 1:10-1:15 mixture of sunburst yellow with water and apply VERY little of the colour onto the white and brown areas.
12. Apply a very thin line of white onto the most exposed areas.
13. Normally I go over the whole nmm again and adjust some blendings/ sharpen contrast/ repair stuff etc.

Faces:

For faces I use blendings of Tanned Flesh, Dwarf Flesh and Elf Flesh with a final highlight of bleached bone. The darker areas of the face get touched on with thin purple/brown/blue/red and/or black mixtures. I did that differently each time. The librarian got a stubble with black sooth weathering powder but you can use chaos black (or different colours) and dry brush them. You could also use very, very thin colour to get a stubble. I'm still at the experimental phase with faces so don't take it too serious what I'm saying.

I hope that helps a little bit. I could keep on writing about it for much longer but the best thing you can do is to pick up a brush and give it a try. If you want you can put up the pictures on the forum and I can try to give advise.

Keep on happy painting.

Burkhardt


Last edited by LeGeneral on Tue Jul 05, 2011 3:11 pm, edited 2 times in total.



Tue Jul 05, 2011 2:55 pm
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